Vineyards at Vignoble La Halte des Pèlerins

Yes there are wineries in Quebec. Yes, they have vineyards are a growing grapes. Yes, they make excellent Vin de Glace, Icewine, although most growers have to alter their methods a bit different than growers in Ontario. At an earlier conference this year a writer asked me why I was going to visit wineries in Quebec. He said they have no vineyards. My previous research indicated that they did indeed have vineyards, so I was interested in discovering what they were growing and how the wines were turning out.

My first impression is that they are growing mostly cold hardy grape hybrids and doing an excellent job of it. I have tasted many of the University of Minnesota grapes for cold climates. However, it was not until our trip to Quebec that I discovered the potential for these grapes. It will be interesting to note the wines made from these grapes as the vineyards mature. There is an increase in planting vinifera and trying to protect the vines when the temperatures fall into negative numbers. Burying the vines under soil, hay, snow or geotextile material is the common practice.

Icewine from Vignoble Isle de Bacchus

The Icewines were great. Most growers can not leave the grapes on the vines until the temperatures fall to -8ºC or lower. The reason for this is that by the time the temperatures fall, the grapes and vines are covered with snow. If the air temperature is a -8ºC chances are the snow covered grapes are warmer. Digging through snow to harvest the grapes will often damage the grapes. Many growers harvest the grapes and place them in nets above the vines until the temperatures reach the desired point. They argue that once a vine is dormant, there is no longer any give and take between the vine and the grapes. By placing the grapes in nets above the vines, the grapes experience the same weather as grapes that would be on the vines. If you like Icewines, check out Quebec’s Icewines.

Wine travel in Quebec is like wine travel in the United States and Ontario. Wine travelers will discover small family-run wineries as well as the larger facilities. Some are rustic while other are very modern. There is a complete range. Most of the wineries are small producers. You will often have an opportunity to meet the owner or winemaker while visiting. Check out the hours the tasting rooms are open. Traveling the roads to the wineries reminded us of traveling in the Finger Lakes Wine Region of New York. There was little traffic and the ride is enjoyable.

I am pleased that Kathy and I visited Quebec. We did enjoy the wines and quite a few varietal grapes that we haven’t tried previously. We will have to visit again in the future. We did get to twenty wineries and cideries; however, there are many more for us to discover.

Cheers,
Terry

While on the wine trails in Quebec, we visited Chapelle Sainte Agnès about a mile north of the Vermont border. Wow! This is how they created the wow factor for their winery and vineyard.

Build a chapel.

A chapel needs a vineyard.

A vineyard needs a chateau.

A chateau needs to make wine. Wow!

Cheers,
Terry

At Vignoble de la Rivière du Chène we met an intern from France. Before she came to Quebec, people asked her why she wanted to go to Quebec. Can they make wine and grow grapes there? This is similar to a statement made to me about the lack of grape growing in the province. Kathy and I visited three wineries yesterday, each had a vineyard. One vineyard was organic and workers were on the vineyard pulling out weeds. Another vineyard was quite large for the area 16.5 hectares (41 acres). This vineyard was planted with hybrid grapes, however they are experimenting with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The third vineyard we walked in had plantings of French hybrids as well as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Chardonnay.

Yes there are vineyards in Quebec and yes some are growing some vinifera while most are growing many different hybrids. Depending on the area it can get cold during the winters in Quebec. Snow offers the best protection. The vines are kept low to the ground, low enough to be covered by a blanket of snow. A grower can not count on snow so other methods of protecting vines are needed when the temperatures drop to -23ºC to even -35ºC in some areas (-10ºF to -31ºF). Covering the vines with soil in the fall is one method that will protect the vines from the cold winters. Other growers are experimenting with geo textile coverings that act like a blanket. The geo textile covering can be reused for a few years. Wine grape growers have determined ways to protect vines so that they can grow and survive Quebec winters.

Yes there are vineyards in Quebec. Some growers are even growing vinifera grapes. Many growers are discovering the best hybrid varieties that can flourish in this region. Wine is made in Quebec with grapes grown in this province. Consider visiting the wineries in the province and discover the taste of the place.

When we saw the email from Theresa Beaver, Viticulture and Enology Certificate Coordinator at Washington State University about a tour to France, we immediately responded. Theresa has been organizing tours to the world’s wine regions since 2010 when a group traveled to New Zealand for two weeks. Kathy and I were on that trip and experienced both the North and South Island wine regions. The people on the trip were all wine enthusiasts. Some of us were wine writers and students, while others were winemakers and wine growers. In all the winery visits, we met with the winemakers and discussions went far beyond “how wine is made.” In addition both bus drivers were friendly and experienced, taking time to show us unusual and spectacular sites as we traveled between wineries.

Now Theresa Beaver has organized a trip to three French wine regions: Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. We are looking forward to spending two weeks in France visiting vineyards and historical sites. Kathy and I will have much to write about as we experience the wines, wineries, vineyards and sites. If you are a wine enthusiast and thought that some day you will visit France, now is your opportunity. The trip is from June 29th through July 13th. Actually the tour begins on June 30th; however, most flights from the United States to Paris will leave on July 29th and get you to Paris during the morning of July 30th.

In addition to visiting wine estates, the France trip will include a visit to a cheese factory where participants will learn the process of making cheese and the history of cheese.

We recall the wonderful bonds that we made with fellow wine travelers from the New Zealand trip and look forward to meeting more people on this trip to France. For more detailed information on this French wine region trip, visit the site or contact the program coordinator, Theresa Beaver at tbeaver@wsu.edu.

Traveling to wine regions is just another part of your wine journey.

Cheers,
Terry & Kathy

One of the many joys of traveling to another country is browsing numerous gift items (souvenirs) to return home with. Reconsider purchasing trinkets like key chains etc at a tourist “trap.” Frequently you will notice that these souvenirs are produced in a foreign country. Eventually these trinkets end up in a junk drawer. The alternative is to find out what is special about the country you are planning to visit and buy an authentic item.

Remember Your Visit to Croatia

For anyone traveling to Croatia this month for the International Wine Tourism Conference or anytime of the year look for specialty Croatian items. Croatia is known for its handcrafted wooden toys, laces and gingerbread. Before buying souvenirs to return home with, be sure to check the customs regulations  for your country.

Beverages of Croatia

Beverages include traditional wines, wines made with Croatian indigenous grapes, and a specialty wine called The Bermet. In addition to the red grapes, this wine also includes wormwood, figs, raisins, spices and carob. The Filipec family keeps the recipe for The Bermet. Of course, Croatia is becoming more involved in the world of wine, so if possible purchase a bottle of wine to take home with you.

Consider returning home with gifts of olive oil. With so many olive groves along the coast of Croatia, Croatian olive oil would be delightful in many kitchens.

Traditional Handcrafts

In 2009 Croatian lace making was placed on UNESCO’s 2009 Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Pag lace is produced on Croatia’s Pag Island. Pag lace is a painstakingly intricate lace made by hand with fine thread and needle. Croatia is also known for Lepoglav’s lace, a bobbin lace. Other handcrafts include Tkanica weaving and Ivanec embroidery.

Gingerbread

Colorful gingerbread would be a delightful gift. According to the UNESCO website, “The recipe is the same for all makers, utilizing flour, sugar, water and baking soda – plus the obligatory spices. The gingerbread is shaped into moulds, baked, dried and painted with edible colours. Each craftsperson decorates gingerbread in a specific way, often with pictures, small mirrors and verses or messages.”

The Origin of the Tie

The modern tie goes back to a time when soldiers in Croatia wore scarves around their necks. Eventually the scarves became a fashion in Europe and ultimately today’s traditional tie. If you know someone who enjoys wearing ties, a Croatian tie might be a wonderful gift.

Handcrafted Wooden Toys

Also, on the UNESCO website are the handcrafted wooden toys produced in Croatia. A special technique has been passed through generations. “The men in a family take soft willow, lime, beech and maple wood from the region and dry, hew, cut and carve it using traditional tools; the women then apply ecologically-friendly paint in improvisational floral or geometric patterns, painting ‘from imagination’. The whistles, horses, cars, tiny furniture, spinning dancers, jumping horses and flapping birds produced today are almost identical to those made more than a century ago – though no two toys are precisely the same, thanks to the handcrafted production process.”

Inventions

The fountain pen, so popular during the 1900s for so many years, was designed in 1907 by Slavoljub Penkala. The year before in 1906 he patented and produced the mechanical pencil. Although people use computers for much of their writing, a gift of a fountain pen would be a delightful keepsake.

If you plan to buy souvenirs when traveling, consider purchasing authentic products in the countries you are visiting.

Cheers! Kathy

Are you looking forward to some enjoyable and fun two or three day trips this summer? Terry developed numerous short winery travel itineraries to help wine lovers and travelers. Each itinerary includes a map. These itineraries are suggestions to help get you started in the region you want to visit. Keep checking back as we will continue to add more itineraries. Countries covered by the itineraries include Canada, New Zealand and the United States.

The itineraries are located on the Wine Trail Traveler website

at http://www.winetrailtraveler.com/itineraries/tripitineraries.php.

Canada has itineraries for Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Jordan and Vineland, and Prince Edward County.

New Zealand itineraries include Waiheke Island, Hawke’s Bay, and Marlborough.

The US North East section offers itineraries for New York’s Finger Lakes’ region while Pennsylvania has suggestions for Brandywine Valley, Lehigh Valley, North East and Interstate 83.

US Mid West itineraries include wineries in Michigan and Ohio. The itineraries include Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. Ohio’s regions covered are Conneaut and Geneva/Madison.

US South offers itineraries in Maryland, North Carolina, Texas, Tennessee, and Virginia. Eight itineraries are in Virginia and five in Tennessee.

 US West itineraries cover California, Colorado, Oregon and Washington.

Keep checking back as we will continue to add more itineraries.

Cheers! Kathy

Marshall Molliver of Molliver Vineyards explained that at one time the wineries in the Southern Virginia wine region didn’t know that each other existed. Now they help each other with ideas, wine testing, events and festivals. One of the programs that brought recognition to the wineries as well as consumers and wine travelers is the SoVA Wine Trail. This wine trail has twelve member wineries that participate in a passport program. Visitors with a passport receive tastings at no charge. Passports cost $20 and you receive a souvenir SoVA wine glass. As you travel to the wineries, you can get a stamp for your passport book. With twelve stamps you can enter your book for a drawing to win two seats at a quarterly SoVA wine pairing dinners by Epicurean Underground.

The Southern Virginia wine region encompasses an area roughly south of the James River to the North Carolina border. Interstate 95 passes through the eastern part of the region while the western part of the region extends almost to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Some of the wineries are a ten to fifteen minute drive from each other while others are up to a half hour drive from each other. Wine enthusiasts who are use to traveling through Northern Virginia will be shocked to discover the lack of traffic in Southern Virginia. We traveled 100 miles on Saturday between hotels and wineries and never had another vehicle trailing us. With the lack of traffic, driving through Southern Virginia is a pleasure and there is plenty of scenery to take in.

The region is hot during the summer and if grapes can be harvested prior to any remnants of hurricanes dumping multiple inches of rain on the vineyards, the wine grapes will have the desired sugar levels, flavor and taste profiles. Wine travelers will discover a portfolio of wines from whites, reds, fruit wines and meads ranging from dry to sweet. Many winery visitors want sweet wines. The wineries have listened to their customers and are producing wines their customers want. However there are also the dry wines that pair so well with food.

Visit the wineries on the SoVA Wine Trail and enjoy the discoveries of boutique wineries in a rural area that is free of traffic, congestion and a hectic life-style.

Cheers,
Terry

Wine Enthusiast Magazine listed the Ten Best Wine Travel Destinations for 2012 in a series of articles published last month on their website. I found eight of the ten. The big one for me was Virginia. It’s the only region on the list that Kathy and I have visited, although we visit Virginia wineries and vineyards a couple times each year and have done so now for several years. The Virginia wine regions tend to draw people to them.

Just last month I wrote a blog suggesting that the International Wine Tourism Conference should consider Virginia as a sight for a future conference. In my blog I mentioned the proximity to Washington D.C., Virginia’s rich history and that a number of wineries are preserving that history. The Wine Enthusiast article by Alexis Korman also mentioned the historical sites and Washington D.C., but also added pastoral landscapes, horses and affable winemakers.

Wait, aren’t all winemakers affable? Actually we discovered one assistant winemaker in Virginia that wasn’t that friendly. He was from another notable world wine region and bashed Virginia because of its humidity and insects. What he didn’t realize at the time was that people are discovering that winemakers in Virginia can make wines that they like to drink regardless of humidity and insects.

Alexis Korman also mentioned in her article the prominent wine varieties in the state including Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The varietal grapes mentioned in my December blog were slightly different. It included Viognier, Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot and Tannat. Petit Manseng is becoming more popular as well as Tannat. I deliberately did not mention Cabernet Sauvignon because at an earlier wine conference in the state, a panel of Virginia winemakers agreed that Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t always ripen and can’t be counted on year after year.

Here is a list of eight of the Wine Enthusiast’s best travel Destinations for 2012.

Virginia, United States
Priorat-Cambrils, Spain
Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

Tokaj-Hegyalja, Hungary
Mosel Valley, Germany
Champagne, France
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Santa Barbara, California, United States

Cheers,
Terry

I just looked at a list of of international tour operators and travel agents that will attend the International Wine Tourism Conference in January 2012 in Perugia, Umbria, Italy. I noticed a couple of the participants are from Virginia. Although I reside in neighboring Maryland, Virginia would make a wonderful host for a future International Wine Tourism Conference.

Virginia has much to offer. The wine industry is young and growing. The state now has 200 plus wineries with several more opening each year. There are two wine regions that could be a base for an international conference. Northern Virginia is close to Washington D.C. and is one of the nation’s fastest growing wine regions. Charlottesville, further south, is also an acclaimed wine region.

Virginia has a history that mirrors American history. Although one will not find dwellings from c. 1000 as in Tuscany, visitors can explore early American history to the present. Many wineries in the state are helping preserve our history by taking an historical site and preserving it for the future. For example the Winery at LaGrange has a tasting room in a house built in the late 1700’s on land named by the Marquis de Lafayette. We made a barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon at Vint Hill Craft Winery. The winery is in a century-old barn that during World War II was used by the military to decipher messages sent from the Japanese Embassy.  It was in this barn that the United States discovered the whereabouts of the Japanese fleet in the Pacific.

Virginia has sponsored wine conferences. Wineries Unlimited Trade Show and Conference has moved to Richmond for its annual conference. In 2010 the Drink Local Wine Conference was held in Northern Virginia and in 2011 the Wine Bloggers Conference was held in Charlottesville. Currently, Virginia has a state government that is pro the wine and tourism industries. It is easy to fly into Virginia and the state is closer to Europe than wine regions on the west coast.

Virginia is very welcoming and has many wineries to explore. Viognier is perhaps the champion grape in the state. Many Virginia winemakers also like Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot and Tannat. Keeping with its historical image, many winemakers are also making wines from the native American grape Norton that during the 19th century was winning awards in Europe.

The International Wine Tourism Conference should explore Virginia for a future conference site. The state is easy to travel to and from, is home to many wineries and close to one of the major cities in the world.

Cheers,
Terry

We spent three days traveling to wineries in the Lake Erie North Shore Region of Ontario. Many of the wineries are within a few miles of the shore of Lake Erie and enjoy the moderating effects the lake has on vineyards. Twelve wineries dot the landscape from Windsor to Blenheim and south. Expect to taste a range or red and white wines including the classic vinifera grapes. Some wineries produce fruit wines. All take pride in producing wines from locally grown fruit.

Wine tourist are largely drawn from the Detroit metropolitan area, an hour and a half away, and Toronto about three and a half hours away. However there are also plenty of wine enthusiasts that travel to the region from other points in Michigan, Ohio and new York as well as Ontario and Quebec. Most wineries are open daily so travelers during the weekdays will find several of the wineries open.

The majority of the wineries are along the Lake Erie shore from Leamington to Amherstburg about a thirty mile stretch that will take an hour to drive between the wineries. Smith and Wilson Estate Wines is the furthest winery from the main area. They are about an hour further east from Blenheim. However the drive is easy along the coast of the lake and worth the visit.

The photo is the new tasting room at Coopers Hawk Vineyards, opening this weekend, November 12th/13th.

If you are looking for a weekend get-away consider traveling to the Lake Erie North Shore wine region. You can visit several wineries each day and enjoy the wines this southernmost wine region in Canada has to offer.

Cheers,
Terry