The Best of Chablis Through the Lens of Four Female Winemakers
by
Sarah Moreau
Neighboring Champagne in the idyllic region of Bourgogne, France, Chablis is home to wines of exceptional purity that pair well with nearly any dish. Often referred as the champions of cool-climate Chardonnays, Chablis wines offer freshness, crispness, and mineral acidity with recognizable notes of zesty citrus fruits.
Chablis enjoys a strong heritage of high-quality and careful winemaking. Tended by a community with centuries of experience, Chablis vines are harvested in September and October when thousands of hedonists travel to the region to witness wine craftsmanship at its best.
Today, Chablis can count on a strong lineup of passionate, committed, and diverse winemakers. Among them is a rising population of consummate female winemakers who are influencing what the wines of tomorrow will taste like.
With more women taking over familial domains and leadership, Chablis winemakers are actively shaping the future of winemaking while respecting the region’s long-standing traditions. Here are four women whose passion for Chablis’ terroir transcends the frontiers of France.
Meet Eléonore Moreau of Domaine Moreau et Fille
Growing up in Poilly-sur-Serein in Bourgogne’s Yonne department, Eléonore was mostly interested in horse riding. She became more involved in her family’s Domaine by the age of 16 and pursued a Business degree upon her father’s advice. After a few stints in hotels and vineyards across France, Eléonore went home in 2014 to dedicate herself to the family vineyard along with her father and brother. At Domaine Moreau et Fille, Eléonore leads business operations as well as the vinification process. Her partner is also involved in the family business. No word yet if her son Raphaël, six months old, will follow her footsteps!
Try her wine: Eleonore Moreau Petit Chablis 2019
Meet Charlène Pinson of Domaine Pinson Frères
In Chablis since 1640, Charlène Pinson’s family has been exporting wine in the US since 1880. Today the estate is run by Charlène and her father Laurent, whom she credits for her passion and respect for the vine. At Domaine Pinson, Charlène, a winemaking graduate from Beaune, trusts her intuition when it comes to interpreting the terroir. She believes a good winegrower works with nature and must adapt to the rhythm of seasons, which are increasingly affected by climate change.
Try her wine: Domaine Pinson Freres Chablis 2018
Meet Catherine Poitout of Domaine L&C Poitout
Catherine Poitout owes her savoir-faire from her late father, Raoul Gautherin, who thought her the secrets of the vine from an early age. His technique, as well as his profound love for winemaking, inspired her to always stay connected to the vine. Catherine planted her first vines in 1988 and cultivated a parcel of land in les Clos for years, before jumping on the opportunity to create her own Domaine with her husband Louis Poitout in 2011. Today, she cumulates many roles including her favorite: the manual labor of tending to the vineyard. Catherine believes a woman’s sensitivity allows to understand the vine differently.
Try her wine: 2016 L&C Poitout Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin Stellaris
Meet Marie-Ange Robin of Domaine Guy Robin et Fils
Despite the Domaine’s name that might hint to a son, it is in fact Guy Robin’s daughter, Marie-Ange Robin, who is behind the success of the family’s winery. A fourth-generation winegrower, Marie-Ange left a thriving career in fine arts in Paris to return to her family estate when her father became unwell in 2005. Through hard work and personal dedication, Marie-Ange helped save the estate. Today it is one of the few in Chablis to boast such a rich collection of older-vine rootstock; a direct result of Guy’s decision to save his vines at a time when many prioritized production and profit by planting new Chardonnay clones in the 1960s.
Try her wine: Domaine Guy Robin & Fils Vieilles Vignes Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2016
Article written May 2021.
About the Author
An award-winning wine PR expert, Sarah Moreau helps the world’s top vineyards achieve visibility and awareness in the US. She writes articles and blog entries for Wine Trail Traveler with a focus on French wines. A WSET graduate, Sarah also speaks at various industry conferences across the country.
