Château Calissanne
(An Online Virtual Visit)
by
Terry Sullivan
Images provided by
Château Calissanne
unless otherwise noted.
This article about Château Calissanne is based on an online interview, online data and photos supplied by the winery. We also received tasting samples. The article was written during the time of the worldwide 2020-2021 pandemic. Emeline de LAFONTAN de Goth, Comerciale Export/Export Sales, responded to our questions and supplied the photos.
Summary: Château Calissanne’s vineyards bask in the sunshine in very different topographies. The hillsides and cliffs provide distinctive terroirs for the grapes. The winemaking team can make different wine profiles. Wine enthusiasts can visit and taste wines and olive oils crafted from the land.
History
The land where Château Calissanne domaine and vineyards now reside have a multi-century history. Emeline wrote:
“Since the earliest antiquity, Calissanne has witnessed intense activity due to its Gallic Oppidum of Constantine, occupied by the Romans until the 8th century. The Visigoths continued the exploitation of wealth, olive trees and vines until the arrival of the Templars. In the 12th century, they established a Commandery which was transformed in the 17th century by a wealthy Aix family. In the 19th century, Charles-Auguste Verminck took over and modernized the property.
“Exploited by the Romans since antiquity, the stones of Calissanne have been used to build many famous buildings in the region (Pont Flavien de Saint-Chamas, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur d'Aix- en-Provence, Notre Dame de la Garde, Palais Longchamp and Le Pharo in Marseille).
“In 2001, Philippe Kessler took over the estate, modernized the cellar, restructured the vineyard and the olive grove. Today, his wife Sophie Kessler-Matière (pictured left) continues his work.”
The Kessler family came from the department of Cantal. They were from a rural area and naturally attached to the land. This background led them to acquire the estate. Looking from their history to the future, there is an emphasis on terroir.
Vineyards
There are 110 hectares (272 acres) of vineyards on the Château Calissanne estate that encompasses a total of 1,200 hectares (2965 acres). Also on the estate there are 60 hectares (148 acres) of olive trees. Varietal grapes planted for the white wines include: Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Sémillon and Ugni Blanc. Grape varieties for the production of rosé and red wines include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre and Syrah.
A unique aspect of the vineyards is their topography, cliffs and hillsides. The vineyards are about 15 km from the Mediterranean Sea. Emeline wrote about the vineyards and their terroirs.
“At Calissanne, we only work with plot selection : every plot contributes to a dedicated wine. We do have 25 different plots, but with 4 distinct terroirs :
• Les Fourches: steep slope, south facing, with deep chalky-clay soil (chalky at the surface, clay lower down).
• Le Chalet: estate’s higher ground, south facing, on a slope, with stony and chalky soil..
• Saint Modeste/La Gare: southwest facing. Production is limited here, yields are low, and the chalky-clay soil is shallow.
• Chenin Blanc: fine, light sandy-loam soils. A terroir perfectly suited to our fruity and light wines.”
In the vineyards, the growers appreciate the different landscape of the vineyards. During the springtime, sheep and a shepherd are brought into the vineyards.
Winemaking
The operations manager for the winemaking is Serge Gombert and Marion Hythier is the winemaker. The winemaking team enjoys the diversity of the grapes in the vineyards. They have the ability to produce different wine profiles. They would like wine enthusiasts to know that they produce not only rosé but also white and red wines.
Wines
We were fortunate to receive a sample box of two Château Calissanne wines. This was part of the Hopwine Fair that took place in March 2021 online. Each sample was 20 ml, enough for a tasting. (Pictured below by Wine Trail Traveler).
The 2020 Calisson de Calissanne, AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence was a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The wine had a translucent peach-rose color. The very aromatic wine had 13% alcohol. The aroma was reminiscent of a bouquet of flowers and a fresh summer fruit salad. The wine had a very velvety mouthfeel. Roses, peaches, grapefruit and lemon were on the taste. The finish was fruity. This is a 3P wine (porch, patio and pool). Pair it with a rocking chair on a porch. Also serve as a great aperitif.
The 2019 Clos Victoire Red, AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence was a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 13.5% alcohol wine had an opaque dark ruby color with a dark pink hue. Black fruits were on the aroma. The taste included plums, blackberries, cassis, and spices notably peppercorns. The wine was full bodied with bold tannins. The finish was fruity. The wine would pair well with red meat dishes and hard cheeses.
The Château Calissanne wines pair very well with food. Emeline wrote, “Most of our wines pair with all types of foods; but our favorite pairing is Château Calissanne Blanc with oysters; Calisson de Calissanne with tapas or Clos Victoire Red with grilled duck breasts. Delicious!”
In Provence a great pairing for the wines includes Petits farcis provençaux, a dish of meat stuffed vegetables.
Wine Tourism
Visitors to Château Calissanne can taste wines at the shop and tours are offered on request. Tastings and tours are offered in French, English and German. Cellar tours are offered on Tuesday and Friday at 14:00 (2:00 PM) and last about 30 minutes. Vineyard and olive grove tours require registration in advance and last 50 minutes.
Olive Oils
There are two olive varieties on the estate Aglandau and Salonenque. Harvested olives from the 60 hectares of olive trees on the Château Calissanne estate are sent to a local mill to be blended into olive oils. Visitors can also taste olive oils and have quite a sensory experience. There are three olive oils to taste: Font de Leu, Les Merveilles and Sainte Modeste (AOP and AOC).
While visiting Provence, take the time to enjoy the unique topography of Château Calissanne.
RD n° 10 13680
Lançon-Provence, France
Article written April 2021.
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