Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei
(An Online Virtual Visit)
by
Kathy and Terry Sullivan
Images provided by Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei unless otherwise noted.
This article about Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei is based on an online interview, online data and photos supplied by the winery. The article was written during the time of the worldwide 2020-2021 pandemic. We graciously received a bottle of their 2019 Sonntaler Vernatsch Alte Reben Schiava to review for this article. Export Manager Harald Cronst answered our questions.
Summary: Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei is located in the Alto Adige wine region of Italy. Kurtatsch Kellerei is an old winery cooperative established as early as the year 1900. Today the cooperative has almost 200 (190) participating wine growers. In addition to producing red and white wines, the winery is also producing F. A. non-alcoholic juice.
History
The Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei was started in May of 1900. Forty-two winegrowers joined the cooperative in the manor “Freienfeld.”
We asked how and why was the Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei cooperative established. Harald (pictured left) responded, “At the beginning of the 20th century, agriculture and viticulture found themselves in a crisis. In wine growing, the merchants determined demand and prices. The goal of the cooperative model was to process the grape mash and market the wine independently.”
We were curious about the important events occurring during the cooperative’s history. After its founding, the first important event was in 1912 with Phylloxera which was followed by WWI and Italian fascism. According to Harald, “In 1925, increase in rent, reduction of the leased space and contract problems with the city authorities due to the new fascist government, plagued the cooperative.”
However, by 1926 more winegrowers joined the cooperative and the cooperative purchased land and began construction on a new winery that was finished in 1928. The economic crisis around the world caused much distress for the winery as it was facing possible liquidation. When WWII arrived, families were torn apart. By the 1980s things had changed. “In the late 80’s Alto Adige’s shift from quantity to quality took place and Kurtatsch played an important role in it. In that period the terroir concept started and each variety was planted in the most suitable terroir.”
The most important wine for the cooperative was first marketed in 1990, FREIENFELD Cabernet Sauvigonon Riserva. The cooperative made the first SONNTALER Schiava in 1994 using the grapes from old vines in Kurtatsch.
Contina Kuratsch Kellerei celebrated 120 years by opening a new building in 2020. They also introduced the Alto Adige sparkling wine BLANC DE BLANCS 600.
Vineyards
Harald wrote extensively about the advantages of a wine cooperative. Four elements include: 1) access and selection of vineyards allows an “enormous quality advantage, 2) flexibility 3) economic sustainability and 4) social sustainability.
The vineyards of the members of the cooperative have 190 hectares (470 acres). The vineyards are located between 700 and 3,000 feet. The vineyards grow a wide variety of grapes including: Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Müller Thurgau, Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Moscato Giallo, Bronner, Kerner, Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The cooperative considers Schiava, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer to be indigenous grapes.
"Schiava, after being the mass production grape is finally having a renaissance. Also, Lagrein, which back in the days was planted to give color to the Schiava wines, is highly appreciated since a decade or two due to developed winemaking and its interesting properties: dark colored, earthy taste, medium bodied,” writes Harald.
Wine Trail Traveler asked about the growers' most enjoyable aspects of the vineyards. Harald wrote, "the gentle climate, the beauty of the landscape and the small size of the plots. As almost all the work is done manually, you see always an end because of the small size of the vineyards."
The vineyard terroir includes an area of the warmest of the Alto Adige region. This area is excellent for red grapes. The highlands provide alpine conditions and is excellent for white wines. The climate was described as, “The climate is alpine continental with Mediterranean influence. This brings about 300 days of sunshine / year and, thanks to this, part of the vineyards in the hottest area is particularly suitable for red grape varieties. Strong ventilation is guaranteed by the winds that blow from the peaks of the Mendola massive, the mountains on the back of Kurtatsch."
Winemaking
Before accepted at the winery, the grapes are tested and measured for sugar, acidity, PH and also sensorily.
The cooperative would like the public to know, “If people want to try authentic characterful wines which reflect their place of origin, then they need to try a wine from Kurtatsch. Its bottled landscape beauty through total commitment and passion from 190 small scaled family farms.”
Wine
The 2019 Sonntaler Vernatsch Alte Reben Schiava (pictured right, by Wine Trail Traveler) was crafted from Schiava, an indigenous red grape to the Alto Adige region. Sonntaler is one of the cooperative’s oldest vineyards with vines between 60 and 90 years old. In recent years this grape is making a resurgence of interest. The wine had a translucent red color with a ruby hue. The wine had 13% alcohol. The aroma reminded one of fresh picked red and black berries. The taste called to mind raspberries, black cherries, elderberries, boysenberries, red currants and cranberries. The wine had a medium body with mild tannins. The finish was fruity with a slight hint of oak notes. One can serve the wine as an aperitif. We enjoyed it with cheese that was soaked in Merlot. The wine can also pair with veal, cold cuts, Italian dishes, Alto Adige dishes and cheese.
Wine Tourism
Visitors to Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei will see an architectural delight, and loads of information from the Terroir Parcours and a panoramic terrace. Tours are available in English, Italian and German.
Wine Pairing
According to Harald, Cantina Kurtatsch Kellerei has a wine for “literally every dish!” They are happy to help you find the wine or dish you want.
Article written April 2021.
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