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Portfolio 2005 Perhaps Better than Opus One

Genevieve and Luc Janssens approach art from different perspectives. Genevieve is a winemaker with an impressive background. In 1979 she began working at Robert Mondavi Winery. Ten years later she became the director of production at Opus One. Then in 1997 she became the director of winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery. Luc captured images as he traveled throughout Asia. These photos have come to life in a process called photogravures. During their “home time”, the couple has extended their artistic passion creating a small production wine called Portfolio.

Portfolio is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are grown at the Hendry Ranch Vineyard in southwest Napa while the Cabernet Franc grapes are sourced from Weitz Vineyard in the Oakville Bench. The hand harvested grapes are placed in 35 pound lugs and and taken to the winery where they are double sorted, once before and then after destemming. During fermentation, punch down is done several times a day. Genevieve and Luc sample the wine frequently during maceration determining at what point to drain and press. The wine is then barreled in new French oak barrels for 18 to 20 months. During the process, the wine is never pumped but moved by gravity flow. Bottling is done by hand and is unfined and unfiltered.

I had the Portfolio 2005 recently and enjoyed it. I thought about the Opus One I had previously and much prefer the Portfolio. Opus One is a good wine but my enjoyment was clouded by the hype surrounding it. I expected bells, whistles and fireworks. Instead I had a good wine. I thought this was my unique disappointment however discovered that it was shared by others at the dinner table. In talking to winemakers and their spouses, I’ve discovered that many of them also believe that Opus One is a good wine but were disappointed in it. There was no disappointment with Portfolio though. The Portfolio 2005 offered small dark berry fruit on the aroma and taste. The fruity finish had a hint of sweetness with spice nuances and food friendly tannins.

You can order both the wine and photogravures from the Portfolio Winery website.

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