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Day 9: Portugal Wine Tour

Our wine tour with e-Spain and the Washington State University Enology and Viticulture tours added the intriguing experience of visiting a small barrel producer. In Porto one morning, we visited Josafer Cooperage, a family owned and operated cooperage. In addition to producing large oak wine barrels, they also rejuvenate oak barrels. Our group was treated to a step-by-step process of crafting an oak barrel by hand. The workers at Josafer Cooperage are skilled crafts people who have learned their skills from the ground up. Our tour was conducted by the daughter and her brother of the founder of this small, boutique cooperage.

Josafer Cooperage where barrel making is a craft!

Demo of how a barrel stave is made

Josafer Cooperage barrel head

 

 

 

 

 

 

Graham’s Port Lodge

Next we visited a port lodge. Graham’s Port Lodge dates back to the 19th century. The company focuses on producing ports and still wines. The port wines for Graham’s are brought from the Douro region and aged in the Graham’s large cellars.

Welcome to Graham’s Port Lodge

View of Graham’s from The Yeatman Hotel

Four ports at Grahams – yes, they have more!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vinum Restaurant

After our detailed tour of Graham’s Port Lodge in Porto, we entered the winery’s restaurant known as Vinum. We were invited to visit the wine bar area of the restaurant to enjoy a cocktail made with port, tonic water, a slice of lemon and a mint leaf. This cocktail was definitely refreshing. After receiving the cocktail we returned to the dining area of Vinum where we enjoyed another two to three hour lunch.

Cocktail at Graham’s Vinum Restaurant

Soup at Vinum Restaurant

Fresh salad with cod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

O Valentim Restaurant

Later we had dinner at O Valentim Restaurant is located outside of Porto and is within a short distance of the ocean. The emphasis at O Valentim is on seafood. To the delight of sardine lovers, three different plates of sardines in various sizes were served. Other dishes included an appetizer of octopus and later an entreé with sea bass.

For the evening we arrived at The Yeatman Hotel, where we stayed for several nights. The Yeatman Hotel is a high-end lodging site across the river from Porto, with picturesque views of the Douro River running through the city of Porto. The hotel offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. In addition, it has the added addition of a large spa that offers vinotherapie treatments by Caudale treatments. The hotel is located near several large Port lodges, making it an ideal location to stay.

Scene from Hotel Yeatman entrance

View of Porto from hotel room balcony

Vinotherapie Spa entrance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers!
Kathy

8th Day: Portugal

Our tour of Portugal’s wine regions continued on our eighth day with visits to two quintas in the Douro Valley. At Quinta do Portal, we had the opportunity to see a demonstration of a Port bottle opened with a tong. During our tour we learned that older ports tend to have the corks sealed with sugar from the ports, increasing the likelihood of the corks falling apart as they are removed from the bottle. Using iron tongs and a special technique, the neck of the bottle is cut. The technique seems simple enough, but would you want to use it with a bottle of old Port in your cellar? At our demonstration, we were asked would we rather use the tongs on an old Port or saber a bottle of Champagne? How would you answer?

Portal

Porta tongs

Portal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For  our visit to Quinta do Noval, our large touring bus was not allowed to drive to the winery facility. This was all for the better, since we were able to see and take photos of the terraced vineyards and spring flowers bursting forth.

 

Quinta do Noval

Early flowers at Quinta do Noval

Terraced vineyards at Quinta do Noval

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On our eighth day of touring Portugal, we were looking forward to a boat ride on the Douro River; unfortunately the weather was less than cooperative. The Douro River needs to be taken seriously. It runs with deep currents and after days of rain in the region, the  sight of white caps and a tree floating in the river were enough to cancel the trip. However, even during a rainy day in winter, the Douro Valley is beautiful. Up close to some of the vineyards, you can observe the vine’s architecture as well as the terraced landscape.

View of Douro from bus

 

 

 

 

 

Upon returning to The Vintage House Hotel, there was enough time for Terry to provide a 45-minute  presentation/tasting to the group on the Georgia, Sakartvelo ancient wine industry. Everyone was interested in the ancient Georgian winemaking tradition.

Cheers!
Kathy

Tips for Passover Wines

Yarden Gewurtztraminer

Are you interested in Passover wines? In late February, I received a press release with tips about pairing Passover wines and foods. The following is posted with permission from Yarden Inc.

Cheers!
Kathy

NEW YORK, Feb. 28 – Israel’s leading wineries today released Passover food and wine-pairing tips matching the traditional four cups of wine with different dishes from throughout the holiday Seder meal.

The recommendations, from Israel’s leading Golan Heights and Galil Mountain wineries, and their North American importer, Yarden Inc., are for the holiday that begins the night of Friday, March 30, and ends the evening of Saturday, April 7.

For the traditional matzah ball soup appetizer, with its lush chicken stock and dill, garlic and onion notes, Yarden recommends pairing with a range of popular whites, from a medium-bodied, lean chardonnay, to a crisper, herbal sauvignon blanc. The soup can also nicely accompany a floral viognier or a tart semillon. Alternatively, Yarden recommends its 2016 Hermon White – a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, viognier and semillon, exhibiting bright notes of citrus, melon, peach, green apple and tropical fruit.

For the first course of the meal, gefilte fish, with its mellow whitefish flavor and spicy horseradish accompaniment, Yarden recommends a crisp, tart sauvignon blanc to play off the spice, although an oaked viognier could also work. Yarden also suggests that the Hermon White would be the perfect match for this traditional Seder dish.

In most U.S. Jewish homes, the main course usually brings a hearty chicken dish of some kind, or a beef brisket. For the chicken, Yarden recommends either a medium-bodied, oaked chardonnay or a floral viognier for a white, or a fuller-bodied merlot for a red. However, one can also choose the 2014 Galil Yiron, a blend of merlot, syrah, and petit verdot, with abundant aromas of berries, cherries, and plum jam, on a seasoned background of vanilla, clove, and toasted oak. This well-balanced, full­bodied wine has a long, classic finish.

Gilgal Cabernet Sauvignon

For brisket, a cabernet sauvignon is the natural twin, and Yarden offers its Gilgal Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gilgal Cab features ripe cherry and cassis fruit notes layered with rich oak, vanilla and spice, with a good texture and velvet structure, which smoothly handles the flavorful and dense brisket.

Most U.S. Jews go with the classic coconut macaroons or chocolate torte for dessert at the Seder, which offers a chance to cap the festivities off with a dessert wine such as gewurtztraminer. Yarden’s 2016 Gewurtztraminer features layers of passion fruit, kiwi and lychee fruit characters, with floral and warm spice notes, boasting a complex finish and hint of sweetness, so the wine plays off nicely with coconut or chocolate.

“American Jews are increasingly looking to find the best possible wine to go with every course in their Passover Seder,” said Dorit Ben Simon, international marketing manager for Yarden Inc. “This year, when we ask ‘why is this night different from all other nights?’, we can also say that we have ideal Passover wine and food pairings.”

7th Day: Portugal

DÃO

Our journey of Portugal’s wine regions through e-Spain  with Washington State University  took us to the Dão and Távora-Varosa regions.

Casa de Darei is notable for maintaining organic vineyards. In addition to the wines, Casa de Darei had a medium-sized dog who was looking for hugs. A wall in the tasting room is filled with numerous images of grapes growing in Portugal.

 

 

Casa de Darei

Lagar de Darei 2015

Darei’s winery dog was very friendly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quinta de Lemos is a relatively new winery having started about 1996. At the time of the purchase, the property had 10 hectares of vineyards. Quinta de Lemos has increased the number of vineyards significantly.

Quinta de Lemos flag

Old vintage vats at Quinta de Lemos

Fog gently kisses the Quinta de Lemos vineyards

 

 

 

 

 

 

Murganheira Winery, located in the Távora-Varosa region, features sparkling wines which are housed in large underground caves. The winery tasting room displays unique pieces of art which appear to emphasize the feminine mystique and of course the delicious bubbly, sparkling wines.

 

Murganheira’s sparkling wines are bubbly

Dynamic art at Murganheira Winery

Large caves at Murganheira Winery store thousands of sparkling wines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Vintage House Hotel on the edge of the Douro River was a delightful spot to spend two evenings after our long but wonderful tours of wineries. The Vintage House offered picturesque views of the Douro River and nearby vineyard terraces. The hotel treats guests to a wide range of breakfast foods – a perfect way to start off another day of tours.

Views of the Douro from Vintage House

Vintage House

Vintage House

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers,
Kathy

6th Day: Portugal

The sixth day of our visit to discover the wines and culture of Portugal began with a visit to the city of Evora. It was a cold and rainy day and matched easily with a visit to the Chapel of Bones in a very large church. The brightest point of the church visit was the opportunity to see a very large collection of nativity scenes of all sizes. One was small enough to fit in a walnut shell; others were much larger. A large chapel is also a available to visit.

Outdoor nativity scene with view of Evora

Tiny nativity scene is one of many nativity sets

Travelers also visit this church

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next visit was to Herdade do Mouchão in the Alentejo region.  The original winery was started in 1901 and it was completed in 1904. Today the winery continues on in the hands of the 6th generation family. Notice the vintage ladder leaning against the oak tank (vat.)

Herdade do Mouchao

Herdade do Mouchao

Herdade do Mouchao

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch at Tasca do Montico, we visited Quinta dos Termos located in an area where the summers are hot with 40º C (104º F). At night the temperatures dip to 10 to 15º C (59º F). The vineyards are organic and therefore no herbicides, pesticides or fungicides are used. Pruning and harvest is all completed manually.

 

Quinta dos Termos

Quinta dos Termos

Quinta dos Termos Vineyards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After our visit to Quinta dos Termos, we spent the night at Pousada de Viseu. This hotel is unique in that it was once a hospital. The facility has been totally renovated into a elegant lodging site. Our room was huge with perhaps ceilings that were 15 feet high. The closets and bathroom are housed behind dark wood panels in the center of the room. The large king size bed was located on the other side of the panel.

Cheers!
Kathy

5th Day: Portugal

On our 5th day in Portugal, we visited the Amorim Cork Factory. The company purchases the cork from cork tree growers. At this location the Amorim factory receives the stacked layers of cork and begins boiling the cork and checking the cork for defects. At another Amorim location the cork begins its formation into bottle corks, insulation, soles for shoes and many more products.

 

Amorim Cork

Amorim Cork

Amorim Cork

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next stop was Plansel winery and garden center. We met Jorge Böhm and quickly realized his passions of grapevines/olive trees, art and wine. Our group was treated to a delightful lunch in his private art collection room.

 

Plansel winery

Plansel

Plansel Vineyards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reguengos de Monsaraz is a delightfully unique and historic village set atop a high hill with views of the countryside. One guide told us that the village has approximately 50 residents who are located in the village below and the castle above. It was a wonderful stop for our group to make. A few minutes later we stopped to view a monolith.

 

Reguengos de Monsaraz

Reguengos de Monsaraz

Monolith

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jose de Sousa winery emphasizes producing wines in large clay pots which are housed on top of the ground and located in the wine cellar. Notice the curved arches which add a lovely ambiance to the scene.

 

José de Sousa winery

José de Sousa winery

José de Sousa clay pots

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stayed overnight at Convento do Espinheiro. This building was once a convent and has been renovated to accommodate visitors. Guest rooms are large and the curved arches in the dining area, where we enjoyed breakfast, were elegant.

 

Convent

Convent dining area

Convent

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Watch for our future Wine Trail Traveler articles about these Portuguese locations.

Cheers!
Kathy

4th Day: Portugal

Our 4th day of touring the wineries of Portugal continued with our group of about 30. The tour was sponsored by Washington State University which used the culinary expert tours of e-Spain. We visited  Casa Santos Lima which has 400 hectares of vineyards onsite and off site. They are the largest producer of Vinho Regional Lisboa and DOC Alenquer. They are exporting 90 percent of their production.

Casa Santos Lima

Casa Santos Lima

Casa Santos Lima

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Following the visit to Casa Santos LIma, we arrived qt Quinta de Monte d’Oiro where in addition to a winery tour we enjoyed lunch.

 

Quinta de Monte d’Oiro

Quinta de Monte d’Oiro

Quinta de Monte d’Oiro

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next visit of the day was to Quinta da Folgorosa which was established in the early 1700s.

Quinta da Folgorosa

Quinta Da Folgorosa

Quinta Da Folgorosa, owner and winemaker

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our final visit for the day was to Quinta de São Domingos (Fonte das Moças) which is celebrating its 100th year. The region is on the UNESCO website.

Fonte Das Moças

Fonte das Moças

Fonte des Moças

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Watch for Wine Trail Traveler’s articles about each individual winery we visited during this excellent tour.

Cheers!
Kathy

Cocktails for St. Patrick’s Day

St. Patrick’s Day is almost here! Do you need a special cocktail recipe to celebrate the day? Any of these recipes from Sparkling Ice and Santa Margherita would be tasty any time of the year.

Ginger Lime Mojito

Ginger Lime Mojito

Ingredients

3 oz Sparkling Ice Ginger Lime
1.5 oz White Rum
10 mint leaves
Lime wedge, for garnish
Mint sprig, for garnish

Directions

In an ice filled Collins glass, add Sparkling Ice Ginger Lime, rum, and mint leaves, then stir. Garnish with a lime wedge and mint sprig and serve.

Gin Fitzey

Gin Fitzy

Ingredients

1.5 oz of gin
Simple syrup
½ lime (sliced into 3 wedges)
Splash of Sparkling Ice Lemon Lime
Lime (garnish)

Directions
Add gin, simple syrup, and lime wedges to shaker. Muddle. Add ice. Shake and strain into chilled glass. Add a splash of Sparkling Ice Lemon Lime. Garnish with lime twist.

Ginger Sage Cocktail

Ginger Sage Cocktail

Ingredients

1 bottle of Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Simple Syrup
1 cup honey
3 cups water
2 whole pears, peeled, cored and diced
1 large piece of ginger, peeled and diced
20 fresh sage leaves (plus more for garnish)

Directions

In a saucepan combine the honey and water over medium heat and bring to a light boil. Turn the heat down to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the honey has dissolved completely. Add the pears, ginger and sage leaves. Simmer, stirring occasionally until the mixture has reduced by 1/3 (about 15-20 minutes). Remove from heat and let the mixture steep for an additional 10 minutes. Strain the syrup into a large canning jar or thick glass bowl. Discard the ginger and sage leaves.
Place a few pieces of the cooked pear into each stemless wine glass followed by 2 tbsps of the simple syrup. Add Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore DOCG and serve.

Cucumber Lime & Basil Prosecco Spritzer

Prosecco Spritzer

Ingredients

1 lime juiced
4 basil leaves
4 cucumber slices
Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore DOCG

Directions

Muddle lime juice, basil and cucumber in a shaker glass. (For extra flavor infusion allow mixture to marinate in the fridge for at least one hour). Add ice and shake mixture. Strain the juice only (about ½ oz.) into a Prosecco glass. Top with Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore DOCG and garnish with a basil leaf and cucumber slice.

Spicy Sparkling Margarita

Spicy Margarita

Ingredients

2 parts Blanco Tequila
½ part Cointreau
3 slices of Jalapeño pepper
Juice of 1/8 lime
1 ½ parts Sparkling Ice Lemon Lime

Directions

Shake Tequila, Cointreau, lime juice and peppers with ice. Pour into rocks glass with salted rim and lime wedge. Top with Sparkling Ice Lemon Lime.
Enjoy these delightful cocktails safely.

Cheers!
Kathy

 

 

Day 3: Portugal

Unique vineyard in Portugal

On Sunday we visited a very special vineyard where we saw a unique way of growing grapes that protects the grapevines from strong winds. In our March visit the grapevines appear to be in deep sandy holes with the vines laying on the soil. Decades ago it was discovered that grapevines should survive in this location if they grew in the sand close to the soil. The grapes from this vineyard are some of the most expensive grapes in Portugal. Bring that into dollar signs, it was estimated that the grapes sell for about $4,000 a ton.

Ocean view

After leaving this unique vineyard, we drove on to a nearby location with views of the ocean. The ocean was very rough with the waves rushing and crashing on the shore. Too soon it was time to leave this mesmerizing sight of such strong winds.

We then arrived at Adega Regional de Colares, one of the oldest wine cooperatives in Portugal.

Wine Cooperative

 

Our final stop of the day was the Palace of Regaleira, built in the 1800s as a summer home. With gardens and underground tunnels to explore, it must have been a special treat especially for children!

Summer palace

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers,
Kathy

Discovering the Culture and Wines of Portugal

We have had a fun filled, enjoyable experience with like-minded wine enthusiasts. Our tour (through e-Spain) while featuring wineries in Portugal also included cultural activities. After Friday night’s dinner at Cervejaria Trindade, Saturday was a chance to experience more of the culture around Lisbon.

Cristo Rei Almada

Saturday began  with a visit to the Cristo Rei Almada, which in addition to a large statute and a fascinating history also offers picturesque views of the city of Lisbon.  We then visited two wineries followed by a visit to the monument (The Statue of Gago Coutinho Sacadura Cabral Plane)  dedicated to the first pilot to fly across the South Pacific.

The two wineries visited  on Saturday are on the Peninsula of Setubal.  The first winery was Quinta da Bacalhôa where we saw centuries old olive trees, large barrel rooms, humongous stainless steel tanks, and a museum of African culture. This visit was followed by lunch at Comporta Cafe located at the edge of the Comporta beach. After a long lunch (dinner by American standards) we proceeded to Herdade da Comporta, a winery located adjacent to rice paddies. It was interesting to see in the wine shop, bottles of wine and packages of rice for sale. Watch for reviews of the Portuguese wineries we visit to be added to the Wine Trail Traveler website.
Cheers!
Kathy


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