Four generations of the Einaudi family have crafted wines. I had an opportunity to taste three Barolos from their portfolio at the Barolo, Brunello, Barbaresco tasting in Washington DC last month. The tasting was organized by Empson USA. Poderi Luigi Einaudi was established by Luigi Einaudi in 1897 in the Dogliani in the province of Cuneo. Luigi originally sold the grapes until 1915 when he had the cellars built and began to make and sell wine. Luigi Einaudi served as President of the Italian Republic from 1948 – 1955.

Today the estate is under direction of Luigi’s great grandson Matteo Sardagna Einaudi. The winery has 63 hectares (156 acres) of grapevines planted that totals 358 acres in several areas. 

Wines

The 2016 Barolo “Cannubi” DOCG was made with Nebbiolo grapes from the Cannubi Cru. The vineyard soil is composed of gray white marne of Sant’Agata which consists of 55% clay, 30% sand and 15% limestone. The fermentation and maceration time took a bit over three weeks. The wine was then racked to large barrels where it aged for thirty months. Afterwards the wine continued to age in bottles. This Barolo had a translucent garnet color. Cherries and flowers were noted on the aroma. The taste offered cherries, violets and some baking spices. The wine had a silky mouthfeel and was full bodied with bold tannins. Fruit and spices were on the finish.

The 2016 Barolo “Ludo” DOCG was a blend of Nebbiolo from three crus: Cannubi, Terlo and Bussia. Fermentation and maceration lasted for 16 days. Half of the wine aged in large oak barrels for 30 months, while the other half aged in barriques for 18 months then racked to large barrels for an additional year. After bottling, the wine aged for 8-9 months before being released. The wine had a translucent garnet color with a perfume and cherry aroma. The taste included violets and cherries along with tobacco and baking spices. The velvety wine was medium/full bodied and had bold tannins. The finish was fruity and spicy.

The 2016 Barolo Terlo “Vigna Costa Grimaldi” DOCG was crafted with Nebbiolo grapes from the Costa Grimaldi vineyard in the Terlo cru. The vineyard was composed of a marly- calcareous soil. The fermentation/maceration lasted for 24 days. Thirty months of aging took place in large oak barrels followed by 8-9 months in bottles. The wine had a translucent garnet color with a sienna hue. Perfume and red berries were on the aroma. The taste included cherries, red raspberries and licorice. The velvety mouthfeel was accompanied by bold tannins on the full bodied wine. The finish had fruit and spice notes.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi offers three different winery tour experiences ranging in times from 90 minutes to 150 minutes. If you enjoy Barolos try one from Poderi Luigi Einaudi.

Cheers,
Terry

In early March Kathy and I attended a tasting in Washington DC by Empson USA. Empson USA is a distributor for their portfolio of Italian wine in the United States. I tasted several Borolos from several producers. My favorite producer was Azienda Agricola Conterno Fantino. This winery was founded in 1982 by Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino. The two friends are interested in conserving energy at the winery and in creating environmental sustainability. The property has 26 hectares (64 acres) under vine. The winery is located in the Monforte d’Alba area of the province of Cuneo.

Wines

The first wine tasted was the Barbera D’Alba Vignota DOC 2017/2018. The wine was made with 100% Barbera from a limestone and marl vineyard in the village of Monforte d’Alba. The organically grown grapes were hand harvested in early autumn. Fermentation and maceration took place in stainless steel tanks. The wine was aged in French oak barrels. The wine had a translucent dark ruby color with a red hue. Red fruits were on the aroma and the taste included cherries, black raspberries and leather. The wine was medium bodied and had medium/bold tannins. The finish included fruit and leather.

The next three wines were all examples of Barolos. All were made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. The 2016 Barolo Castelletto “Vigna Pressenda” DOCG was made with grapes growing in a sandy, silty and clay vineyard from the Castelletto Cru in Monforte d’Alba. The grapes were hand harvested in mid-October after careful selection while on the vine. Fermentation and maceration took place in stainless steel, the wine was aged in French oak. The wine was made from organically grown grapes. The wine had a translucent garnet color with a red hue. Perfume and cherries were noted on the aroma as well as the taste. The wine was full bodied with bold tannins. Fruit and leather notes were on the finish.

My “best in show” wine was the 2016 Barolo Mosconi “Vigna Ped” DOCG. The Nebbiolo grapes were hand harvested from the Mosconi Cru in the village Monforte d’Alba. The organically grown grapes were fermented and macerated in stainless steel tanks and then aged in French oak. The wine had a translucent garnet color. Perfume and cherries were on the aroma and taste. The wine was full bodied with kissing tannins ( tannins that cause the mouth to pucker as if you were going to give someone a kiss). The finish was fruity with a delicate oak influence. I enjoy tannins in a wine and for me, the more tannic the better.

The 2016 Barolo Ginestra “Vigna del Gris” DOCG was made with grapes from the del Gris vineyard in the Ginestra Cru of the village Monforte d’Alba. As with the other Borolos tasted, the organically grown grapes were hand harvested and fermented and macerated in stainless steel. The wine was then aged in French oak. The wine had a translucent garnet color. Perfume and cherries were noted on the aroma. Cherries and leather were on the taste. The wine was full bodied and had bold tannins. The finish was fruity with an oak influence.

I was happy to have an introduction to the wines from Azienda Agricola Conterno Fantino and look forward to their availability in Maryland.

Cheers,
Terry

Empson USA is a family owned business that searches Italy for wines that will entice the American palate. Neil and Maria Empson began the company in 1971 after visiting many Italian producers. Today, their daughter Tara continues to lead the company looking for excellent Italian wines that we may enjoy. Last week we met Tara in Washington DC during Empson’s Barolo Brunello Barbaresco Tour in Washington DC.

There are some similarities between the Empsons and Kathy and me. We decided over a decade ago that if we were going to write about wine, we should be making wine at wineries as well as at home. Neil and Maria had a similar thought. If they were going to export Italian wines to the United States, they should own a vineyard and make wine in Italy. Cignale was started by the Empsons in 1981; they decided that they wanted to craft their own Super Tuscan. I had the opportunity to taste this wine and hear Tara talk about the wild boars that plague Italian vineyards in Toscana. 

Tara explained that the wine bottle label shows a sketched drawing of a wild boar. Her mother drew the boar. The Empson’s first harvest was in 1983 and the entire harvest was wiped out by wild boars. When Kathy and I visited Italy in the autumn of 2007 we learned about wild boars. I also enjoyed eating boar especially paired with wines made from Sangiovese. At the time boar was readily available on restaurant menus and at the Coop grocery store. The word “cignale” means boar. It seems fitting that an image of a boar is on their wine’s label.

Cignale has 3.5 hectares (7.5 acres) of vineyards. The vineyards are located in Greve in Chianti in the Florence Province. Vines are planted on a hillside at an elevation between 1320 feet to 1740 feet. The vineyard soil is composed of schist.

I tasted the Cignale Colle Della Toscana Centrale IGT. The blend was mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a splash of Merlot. The wine had extended maceration on the skins for three weeks. The wine aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 20 months then had six months of additional aging in bottles. The wine had a translucent ruby color. The aroma reminded me of a black fruit salad. The taste offered cassis, blackberries and leather. The medium/full bodied wine had medium/bold tannins. The finish was a nice blend of fruit and oak influences.

Empson USA has many clients. It is unique that the family has their own vineyard and is producing a wine.

Cheers,
Terry