Sometimes it’s hard to celebrate a birthday away from friends and family. That may even be sadder if you are 10,461 km (6,500 miles) away from home. That is unless you are in Sakartvelo, the country Georgia. Here, visitors are treated as guests. This is our second visit and we are treated like family.
Unexpectedly on our bus ride of the International Wine Tourism Conference media group from Signaghi to Tbilisi, a chorus of Happy Birthday broke out. Then Kathy was greeted at the Tbilissi Marriott with a “happy birthday” from the receptionist. An unexpected knock on the door revealed a birthday cake from the hotel. This is Georgia!
We usually spend over 30 days a year in hotels. The Tbilisi Marriott deserves special praise. Their staff make this an incredible hotel. This includes all their staff: reception, cafeteria, bellboys; everyone will go the extra mile to make your stay something special. This was a wonderful venue for the International Wine Tourism Conference. Kathy is pleased with the unexpected attention she received on her birthday so far away from home.
Happy Birthday Kathy,
Terry
Cordons tied in a heart shape
We visited Alaverdi Monastery and noticed the small vineyard on the way to the marani. The vines were pruned and tied in a heart shape. This pruning method was new to us and we speculated as to why it was shaped and tied. Two cordons were tied to the post about eight inches above the trunk. They were then looped around and tied again about 20 inches towards the bottom. This creates a heart shape.
Vineyard, September 2013
I thought back to last September, when Kathy and I previously visited. I did not recall the vines in a heart-shaped pattern. The vines appeared to be in a column. Others in our group seemed to recall seeing vines tied in this heart-shape.
Winter and early spring are times to discover the architecture of the vine. Once covered in green, it is difficult to see the structure. A vineyard is wonderful to visit during all seasons as it changes. Perhaps I should try this heart-shaped tiring on a couple of my vines.
Cheers,
Terry
John Wurdeman, tamada at a supra, pours Castle Hill Cider.
Buried under the ground not far from a shade tree are several qvevris that were made in the country Georgia. These earthen vessels, for making wine, traveled 6,500 miles for their resting place at Castle Hill Cidery in Keswick, Virginia. Stuart Madany, production manager, was interested in making cider in qvevris. He had first become interested in qvevris because of his architectural interest in healing and how shape and material affects people. In studying these ideas he was introduced to Viktor Schauberger’s intriguing concepts.
Viktor recognized that nature uses egg shapes. The ancients knew about storing food in amphorae that is somewhat egg shaped. Amphorae are similar to qvevris but not the same. Amphorae are earthen vessels used for transport. Stuart read about how wineries were producing wine in egg-shaped earthen vessels buried in the ground, and this reminded him of Viktor’s egg theory.
We brought a couple bottles of the qvevri made cider, Levity, to Georgia and opened them during a Supra at Azarpesha, a restaurant in Tbilisi. The cider was made with Pippin apples. Only the juice was put in qvevris for fermentation and aging. There was no skin contact. The cider was refreshing and had a strong apple taste. Several members of the media really enjoyed the cider and complimented it. Some said it was different than other ciders they had. The Virginia cider was a hit in Georgia.
During the supra, a toast was made to Georgia. That toast was passed to other who also made a toast to Georgia. A part of Georgia, the birthplace of wine, came to America. The Georgians appreciated the gift of cider made in an ancient style and friendships thousands of miles away.
Cheers,
Terry
Simon Ruadze fills drinking vessel with qvevri-made wine.
Tradition, bounty and hospitality are the hallmarks of Simon Ruadze and his family. We had lunch in his distillery room just a short stroll from his house. Simon met us at our van, dressed in traditional Georgian dress. He spoke of providing visitors with an experience of a traditional Kakhetian supra. On the stroll to the distillery, Simon pointed out his grapevines and his 80 year-old mother who was working in the garden. We stopped a moment to taste a Rkatsiteli from a qvevri buried in the ground. Simon than pointed to his daughter who was barbecuing pork called suki. Grapevine cuttings are dried and used to flavor whatever is barbecued.
Inside the distillery we observed his still, larger than many we have seen in homes. A long table in the room is used for supras. At the end of the table a fire was crackling in the fireplace. Simon poured some Chacha for us to taste. But first, he took a shot and threw it on the flames in the fire place. It ignited. We were going to during that? An empty bottle later, no one seemed to care.
We sat at the table and Simon served the pork kabobs. He then raised his glass and started the first of many toasts. Wine glasses were filled for each toast. For one toast, the woman were asked to remain seated. The men were asked to stand on our seats and toast the women. Between toasts, Simon and his daughter would sing traditional Georgian songs in two parts. Several instruments e made by Simon’s father. Simon or his daughter would play the pander that Simon’s father crafted.
Simon and his daughter sing a song Simon wrote at the supra.
Our supra had several toasts that bordered on the poetic and philosophical. There was also an abundance of Georgian foods. I settled in on drinking the Saperavi that matched the foods. A Georgian supra is a life event that everyone needs to experience.
Cheers,
Terry
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Opening Our Qvevri Wine
Terry and Gela remove sand covering qvevri lid.
We returned to Twins Wine Cellar in Napareuli six months after starting a qvevri wine. The Rkatsiteli grapes fermented and remained on its chacha (grape skins and seeds) until April 1, 2014. During the six months the wine aged and natural filtration took place in the qvevri.
When we arrived the surface of the qvevri was covered. There was a layer of black sand over the covering. Gela Gamtkitsulashvilis, one of the twins that owns the winery, helped me clear away the black sand. It was a bit dry, so water was added to moisten it. That cut down dust particles that were airborne. A brush was used to brush the sand into a corner to make it easier to remove.
After the qvevri was opened, clear wine was noticed at the surface. Several inched below the surface, you could see the chacha. With a wine glass, I stirred the surface and then put wine into the glass. The first taste of our qvevri wine, well I forgot. Caught up in the moment, I did not reach for pen and paper to take notes. I do recall that it had a light gold color, flora aroma and taste with some fruit character and mild tannins. It was a lighter body than other qvevri wines and the tannins were milder. Many people in the media group seemed to like this. We did not put any stems in the qvevri when we made this wine so we did not get the darker color, more body and harsher tannins that other white qvevri wines have. There is a wide spectrum of white qvevri wines and our was extremely palatable.
Gia, Kathy, Terry and Gela celebrate opening of qvevri.
Terry collects a tasting of the qvevri wine for members of the International Wine Tourism Conference media and Twins Wine Cellar staff.
The experience of harvesting Rkatsiteli grapes, cleaning the qvevri, sanitizing the qvevri, putting the grapes in the qvevri and finally opening it was extremely valuable. We will share this experience over and over with our readers and during our classes.
Cheers,
Terry